Put chickpeas in a bowl. Add enough cold water to cover and soak overnight. To cook, drain chickpeas. Place chickpeas, water, turmeric, cumin, coriander, and cayenne in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
Reduce heat to low, cover pan, and simmer for about 1 hour. In a large saucepan, melt butter over medium heat.
Add cumin seed and cook for 1 minute. Add the onion, garlic, and ginger and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, or until onion turns golden brown.
Add chickpeas and cooking liquid to onion mixture. Turn heat to high and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Cover pan, reduce heat to low, and simmer 30 minutes, or until chickpeas are tender but not mushy. Mix well.
Place chickpeas in a serving dish and sprinkle with coriander leaves.